Introduction :
The Himalayan range is classically divided into two regions: the Western Himalayas and the Eastern Himalayas. The mountain range in the states of Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand belong to the western ranges while those in Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh fall in the eastern range.
Sikkim is really fascinating and, famous for the Goechala Trek that takes trekkers quite close to the base of the India’s highest & World's 3rd highest mountain, Kanchenjunga.
It all started with Swapnil’s email in July on Sandakphu Trek (The highest peak of West Bengal); it was a quick yes from me, since I had not done much trek this year, mainly due to current work constraints. Ram’s response “let’s do it dude” made us not think much; tickets were booked immediately to Bagdogra (West Bengal), a military airport that is open for civilian flights (Sikkim doesn’t have any airports); we were all set to fly in the 2nd week of Nov.
A week before our departure, our target changed from Sandakphu to Goechala due to its freaking height of 4,940 m (16,207 ft) and also since the closest airport for both these places where same.
I was going crazy since it was the Mt Kanchenjunga range; the highest mountain in India and the third highest in the word. Wow!!! I knew I was upgrading to another level of trekking, I had already been through a couple of Himalayan treks but this was at a mammoth height.... He also mentioned that he had spoken with a guy called “Dhanraj” who runs a T&T known as “Red Panda” at Yuksom (Base Village for Goecha La Trek); who had confirmed to arrange a guide and the required essentials for the trek.
Planning:
Munching nuggets at the Oberoi mall food court, we chartered out our itinerary; our next meet was at my home, mainly to check my new tent capacity. We also took it as an opportunity to list down the provisional items to be carried for our 6-day trek. Mounting the tent at the Borivali National Park which is just 10 min’s away from home, we were very glad to find ourselves comfortably fit in the tent despite of it being a two person tent and thanked my sister (in law) for the marriage gift. Last meet before the trek was at the food bazaar purchasing few provisional items & energy foods.
Our Itinerary:
Mumbai to Yuksom:
Flight > Mumbai to Bagdogra (via Kolkata)
Drive (170km) > Bagdogra to Yuksom (via Jorethang)
Overnight Stay > Yuksom
Day 1:
Trek (15km) > Yuksom (1780m) to Bakhim (3005m)
Overnight Stay > Bakhim
Day 2:
Trek (12km) > Bakhim (3005m) to Dzongri (4030m)
Overnight Stay > Dzongri
Day 3:
Trek (2km) > Dzongri (4030m) to Dzongri Top (4270m) & back
Trek (8km) > Dzongri (4030m) to Thansing (3900m)
Overnight Stay > Thansing
Day 4:
Trek (16km) > Thansing (3900m) to Samiti Lake (4300m) to Goecha la (5000m)
Trek (16km) > Goecha la (5000m) to Samiti Lake (4300m) to Thansing (3900m)
Overnight Stay > Thansing
Day 5:
Trek (19km) > Thansing to Tshoka (2900m)
Overnight Stay > Tshoka
Day 6:
Trek (16km) > Tshoka to Yuksom
Drive (151 Km) > Yuksom to Gangtok
Overnight Stay > Gangtok
Rest Day at Gangtok:
Overnight Stay > Gangtok
Return to Mumbai:
Drive > Gangtok to Silguri
Drive > Silguri to Bagdogra
Flight > Mumbai to Bagdogra (via Kolkata)
Bye Bye Mumbai !!!
It was 06:30 am on 13th Nov 2010 we reached the domestic airport, waving goodbye to my mom & Anu (my wife) we checked in. During landing at Kolkata; the view outside was very pleasing to my eyes, it was all green; every house seem to have some plantations, most of them coconut trees. Our next destination was Bagdogra, as our flight was after an interval of two hours and since our carrier was the same we were informed that our luggage would be directly delivered hence we thought of checking the city of joy. The very first views were on the yellow cabs and their drivers chasing customers, a common scene around Indian airports. We roamed around for an hour, tried a few fish delicacies and checked in back.
To our shock, we came to know that it was raining in Sikkim. Swap immediately called up Dhanraj; as it came out true we lost hope, our dreams were shattered, but we moved on as per plan, we boarded for Bagdogra; Ram informed that guys sitting parallel to us were also looking to be on a trek; checking with them about their plans we were shocked to know that they had plans to trek but hadn’t confirmed the destination yet. On enquiry, we shared our plans and agreed to assist them further, we suggested joining us till “Yuksom”, since it is the base camp for many treks in Sikkim and then thought of introducing them to T&T Guy.
We reached Bagdogra airport; Dhanraj’s brother Tularam surprised us by tying a sacred cloth around our neck; we felt honoured to get such a traditional welcome.
Our next journey was in a jeep from Bagdogra (West Bengal) to Yuksom (Sikkim) - 170km. Mukesh (our driver) played some cool numbers which kept us all awake; he was very talkative and at times very irritative. During this journey we got close to the Tandav group, they were from South India and all three were college mates; as we got comfortable we agreed to include them in our trek plan. We braked at Jorethang did some grocery & pending provisional shopping, we even munched on some parathas at a local restaurant; reached Yuksom by midnight, parked into Hotel Demazong & slept like logs.
Trek - Day 1: Yuksom (5,500 ft) to Bakhim (8,000 ft) - (14Kms Trek), overnight stay @ Bakhim.
It was the day we all waited for, getting up early, we went for an acclimatize walk and clicked some beautiful pictures. Looking at the amazing peaks we could feel them calling.
We met Dhanraj and had a thorough discussion on the trail. He introduced the support team arranged for our trek. Sondeep, our guide was a 20 yr old guy and had done Goecha La more than 20 times. The other members were - a porter (to assist the cook / cleaning), a cook & a yak man (to manage yaks) and the most important support - our yaks (carrying our bags, utensils, provisional items and tent).
Yuksom, the first capital of Sikkim means “meeting place of the three learned monks”. Yuksom also boasts of having the oldest monastery, built in 1701 A.D. The fur - clad mountains provide a majestic background for this quiet village.
Breakfasting we moved on, crossing few houses and we were moving next to a school wherein we saw some kids decorating, once we saw the “Children’s Day” board we knew what the day was and cruised into the school, spoke with the teacher for a snap with the kids and got a cute snap clicked, moving ahead we reached the end of the road, here we spotted two kids (around 5 yr old boys) holding their hands and enjoying their way to school; as they reached close to us, both of them folded their hands and gave the cutest Namaste I’ve ever heard off, I can still feel their voice, it touched us, wow!!! India really rocks. Reaching the security check post we knew it was the start of “Khangchendzonga National Park”, after the registration formalities we moved ahead, we were soon hiking through the forest with the sounds of the fast flowing water beneath us echoing around. While it is a relatively easy walk for the first hour however the climb suddenly becomes steep as you test your lungs. After a few hours of steep ascents and descents to cross four suspension bridges over various streams and rivers, the trail slowly ascends to a 70 degree uphill to Bakhim. It was a difficult one especially for me since I had developed multiple cramps on both of my legs; terrible pain, can’t forget, but Ram’s massage on my calves made it vanish and I was up again .The trail was different than my previous Himalayan experiences. On reaching Bakhim, we noticed that our support staff had already reached & were ready with tea. After tea it was continuous feast starting with noodle soup, tomato soup and then dinner; we could feel the decrease in the temperature by now, my watch recorded it to be 12°C. The long 14km trek had taken a toll on our body and the only rejuvenating factor for us then was sleep. Stay at Bakhim is in a Forest bungalow with an excellent view of the peaks.
Trek Day 2: Bakhim (8,000 ft) to Dzongri (12,800 ft) - (12Kms Trek), overnight stay @ Dzongri
We experienced our first taste of the delightful trekking custom of "bed tea", where porters with kettles come and pour lashings of tea into a sturdy mug before you’ve even crawled out of your sleeping bag. We were informed that network reception is not available further ahead, hence we made calls home and informed about our whereabouts. One of our mates developed cold feet and wanted to drop going further; we tried to push but since we knew it’s gonna be far difficult ahead we asked him to stay back. We moved on targeting our next destination “Dzongri”, which we knew would be the most difficult trail due to steep climb it offers, after walking for 2 km we reached a village “Tshoka”, it had better trekkers hut and hotels than Bakhim and also we spotted a monastery with a calm and beautiful lake aside it, further the path climbed up and we were moving faster and higher. We crossed few wooden ridges which were very comfortable to walk on, I still remember Swap calling them “Honeymoon Trails”, with less stops and long walks. We reached Phedang (11,550 ft), a meadow almost midway to Dzongri. There is a small log cabin in a dilapidated state, we halted here for lunch. There was heavy mist all around and with the swift winds it was playing hide and seek on the landscape. Then the weather changed drastically and it started snowing, this was something new to us. After tea followed by lunch, we moved on... The trail was now through dense forests and alpine meadows; viewing pine like trees and the green tropical trees with wide leaves fading we could clearly see the vegetation changing from tropical to coniferous. The view of the might mount Kanchenjunga is vivid all along the way. The terrain was changing to a snowy trail; most of the trees were totally covered by snow, we couldn’t control ourselves and stopped for lot of fun photography and snow ball throws all around. Further we picked up pace as we had some flat land ahead of us and soon we could see the log cabin at Dzongri.
We found that the usually used trekker’s huts were already occupied, thank fully Sondeep figured out an alternate hut at some distance, we moved to that hut but our support team stayed at the regular hut since water was only available here. Few minutes later we were served with hot tea & pakodas (hot is just a word, nothing is hot at this height). It was freezing cold inside as outside which was strange, we immediately figured out one of top window had a broken glass, fixing the same with a sack we felt home again. An hour after we were asked to come to the lower hut for dinner but none of us moved as it was damn freezing & we requested to get it up here or we would manage without it, really it was unthinkable to move out of our sleeping bags; they smiled and returned with dinner, we were delighted & thankful for their understanding. Sondeep mentioned that we would need to wake up quiet early to witness the famous sunrise point “Dzongri Top” (13,776 ft).
Trek Day 3: Dzongri (12,800 ft) to Thangsing (8Kms), overnight stay @ Thangsing
It was sharp 5am, Sondeep banged the door and entered with teapot and asked us to move fast after tea. I knew we had to move fast since I had read great about this view point. Climb was little steep, I couldn’t control my jest & moved faster, reaching the topmost point first; I was mesmerised by the surrounding massifs, they were all standing tall as sun came out from bed, the mountains turned golden - it was a terrific view to witness. The weather was excellent, and we could clearly see almost all surrounding mountains: Frey Peak, 5,830 m (19,127 ft), Rathong, 6,679 m (21,913 ft), Kabru North, 7,338 m (24,075 ft), Kabru South, 7,317 m (24,006 ft), Kabru Forked, 6,108 m (20,039 ft), Thumb Peak, Black Kabru, Pandim, 6,691 m (21,952 ft), Koktang, 6,147 m (20,167 ft), and Janoo, 7,710 m (25,295 ft) and the main attraction, the majestic Mt. Khangchendzonga, 8,586 m (28,169 ft) remained the showstopper.
Capturing these beauties in our lenses we moved down, back in our hut and started packing for our next destination “Thangsing” (3900m), we knew this would be quiet easy since we would be going to the other side and at a lower terrain. Many groups end their trek in Dzongri; other crazies like us attempt Goecha La. Few crazy hearted moved on, at first it’s walking on the plain table land, after few hours we were crossing a beautiful meadow which had turned completely white ofcourse due to snowfall; I was stunned!!! Looking up I said “God, seems u really live in India, you have brought everything here”. Walking further, we could feel that we were descending steeply through rhododendrons forest, there were lot of gravels in the route, slowly we could hear the river thrusting down, and we reached Kokchurang, just next to a river bridge. At this point Swapnil had lost all his confidence & was struggling to acclimatize, he made it clear that he wasn’t going up to Goecha la , others agreed too; I was very clear I’m doing it & Ram agreed too. I asked the others to climb an hour more & we can halt at Thangsing which was our next destination. Finally, after a short break and with a bit of convincing the team moved on, crossing the river & after about an hour’s gentle climb, we reach Thangsing. Besides the govt. hut it’s all barren here - no civilization. Parking ourselves in the tent we began a chat about the way forward, except for me & Ram, none were ready for the challenge ahead. Swapnil took some medicine and went for a nap; meanwhile we met an English couple and spoke about their plan, even they were returning back without attempting Goecha La; they explained to us that it was freezing cold here and it would be worst ahead. Still my crazy mind was telling me ‘you can do it yaar’; after dinner; Sondeep came in and checked with us on our plans, we were clear that we both were ready and others would stay back here; Sondeep informed that we would need to start by 02:00 AM.
Trek Day 4: Thangsing to Goecha la () & back, overnight stay @ Thangsing
We both woke up by 1:30 am, packed some dates and with our head torches lit up we moved out; our cook had prepared tea and omelette, Ram gave it a miss but I hogged, Sondeep also packed breakfast for us; I saw him packing popcorns; Popcorns are good medicine for high altitude sickness. Two of us waving goodbye to the other teams moved on; it was pitch dark and the sky full of stars looked amazing. We were now walking through a valley with Mt.Pandim on our right; it was getting cooler & cooler. The path was changing, it was ice floor now, our concentration was at peak height, we didn’t want to get wet by a fall; the cracking sound of ice was something unheard of, crossing 6kms we reached Lamune (4243m), we saw few tents here since there are no huts available people only with tents halt here, we had a tent but our support team forgot their kitchen tent and at this height without our support team it would be suicidal. Now the climb was getting steeper we finally reached one of God’s greatest creation, Samiti Lake, it’s one of the highest lakes in the Himalayas, its source is the melting snow of Mt. Pandim. It was getting much colder due to the frozen Samiti Lake and I could feel my body struggling, it was now that I asked my team for a break; as we rested for few minutes another group of foreigners moved on, greeting them we took another few minutes and started, I was struggling and moving slow; Ram & Sondeep were going at good pace, but they ensured that I’m following them. I was suffering from shortness of breath, dizziness, and headache I knew these were symptoms of altitude sickness; my heart was beating heavily and I feeling my lungs palpating, this was a clear sign of oxygen scarcity. I was thinking of returning back since I was dying internally, but my crazy heart pushed me to levels I never expected to cover; few minutes later we were walking on rugged path with a chill breeze making it far difficult for me to move on. Slowly I saw both Ram & Sondeep disappear I yelled to know their position, Ram responded “dude we made it....5 mins more” I was on cloud 9, man I did it.....I luv u my heart. I reached up except us no Indians were around all foreigners, all the guides were happy, hugging us they praised us for completing Goecha La in four days; they said no Indians do it in four, they attempt in six days. They hugged us and I was asking Sondeep for some popcorn, I knew I made it but was losing breath. Sitting on a rock and watching the highest mountain of India in front of me was the great achievement of life. We were at view point 1. I could see Sondeep shivering as he was not well covered as us, I was even struggling to click, sun woke up and we were watching its rays greeting all the massifs around. It was minus 4.4 and we were at 14500 ft what an achievement; remembering my mom the person who brought me to this amazing world I said aloud “Thank You Mom”.
Ram was interested to move to view point 2; looking at Sondeep I was never in a position to agree; I told him let’s move down quicker, he is struggling. We descended quickly; reached Samiti Lake, took a break to see its beauty, there were prayer flags around and abandoned wooden hut which is not used anymore due to belief of locals. Samiti Lake is considered holy, hence no one is allowed to camp here. Sun was out & my headache was now getting worst, we reached Lamune; Sondeep managed to arrange some water from the locals camping here, with some rest we moved again the journey was never ending finally we reached Thansing. Swapnil was looking better I showed him some snaps and moved into the tent, I was struggling and had lost all energy; Ram narrated our saga to Swapnil; I dozed off. After tea I showed Swapnil captured beauties and he was disappointed, but eagerly checked with Sondeep whether we can redo the same tomorrow morning, his answer was no; I promised Swapnil we are coming back in another 3 years and redoing this and that to we will go till the end of view point 3. Had an early dinner and entered into our cozy sleeping bags.
Trek Day 5: Thangsing to Tshoka, overnight stay @ Tshoka
Sondeep mentioned that we would avoid Dzongri and going through a different route; and this route was easy but were muddy. We started the trail, quickly reached Kokchurang, from here the route was different we took a left and climbed up , we were now crossing mountains through the edges and lot of traverse , as me moved ahead the trail was getting dirtier, muddy and slippery. I remember falling twice we reached Phedang and had a short lunch. Phedang was very similar as we saw it last time, very foggy and mist full. We moved down faster, crossing the honeymoon trail we reached Tshoka in 3 hours. Our support team had already reached and arranged for our accommodation; the govt trekkers hut @ Tshoka had coir mattress this was quiet different.
For my friends who always ask me why do I trek mountains...answer is “...Because it is there”, these four words of George Mallory became the most famous ever in the history of mountaineering.
